Bubbles...

Had a bubble moment......the best bubble moment ever!

hating it...to maybe....

Have been here for almost a week, and in that time, have met up with Richard who works for Bruce Peru, but obviously it is called Bruce Chile. Helped him work in a High Shool doing a drama workshop, and practising Greece, very entertaining. Went to a community centre for a meeting, and the rest of the week wondered in musuems and sky lifts. Am beginning to become accustombed to the city life, and the nutters that come along with it. We went for a drink in Bebiste on Tuesday evening, and after watching a group of boys tease an old druken man, who then decided to return with a skinny two metre long bamboo stick.....Boys had a field day, threw him on the ground and then starting kicking his head in. All right next to us. For those who know me well, will know that I can´t cope with fighting....got up and in the sweetest spanish I could manage without losing my cool, asked them to stop, by basically putting myself in the middle of it all. Richard, I think, thought I was an absolute nutter, but I would rather be the one losing my life than watch someone else lose his. So we waited for an ambulance, and then legged it before we were the next target of head kicking.

All happens here, not as carefree as good old Peru.

Facts about Santiago

• The Metro is great, fast, smooth with rubber wheels...not sure what that means....
• There is a disgusting massive cloud of smog over the city
• Feels like any big city, with people in suits and ties
• Classical music in the street
• Good good red wine
• And, it is soooo chilly in Chile!

All in all, it really is just a city, and being here has made me realise how much I don´t want the city life. Yet I am so not wanting to leave South America, gosh I can feel myself turning into an emotional girl again.

Santiago!

Well I though s for Santiago, will mean S for simple. But things never are in conny moments! Arrived at midnight, got a transvip, small van that takes a few people to their hostals, hotels or homes. All seemed so easy! Got to my hostal and it was shut, no one was opening any doors.....by now it is after one. Did think about sleeping at the airport, got back into the van, and driver drops off everyone else. Have now decided sleeping at the airport would be a good idea.....and waiting for the next morning. Driver, however thought otherwise. He was very concerned that I was not concerned about not having a place, and kept telling me I was far too calm. By now it was after two.....who has the energy to stress. Anyway, very sweet man that he was, continued to drive around, stopping at three hostals....each one was full. Why will nobody share their bed with me! The airport was definitely becoming a better option. Why did I think it would be any easier than this. Got to the last hostal......and yes a bed free in a mixed dorm. So I had to share with five very smelly boys....did hope there would be one girl....but no. Five smelly boys. Hostal ended up being great, hot hot water......free tea and coffee whenever, massive sofas and big t.v with movies all day, books, music, kitchen.....and great great people.
Was so wired up from the whole evening, had a boiling hot steaming shower, a cup of tea, and checked my mail....oh yes free internet..... Got to my bunk, and surprisingly passed out, till sunlight streamed into our room the next morning.

Tomorrow

I leave at some silly hour tomorrow morning and wonder what has happened to the last four months. Everyday has been amazing, some challenging, some painful, yet not one day have I regretted coming here despite some of you thinking I am absolutely mad. I went to the salt fields today, they were so well designed, walking home in the sun I felt such a strong emotion for this place. I look at the ladies with many babies, the market men, the people selling postcards or anything in the plaza and my heart breaks. Somehow Peru has become home, and I don´t know why. I try to think of what I have learnt about life, about me, and I don´t think I have learnt anything, yet I have enjoyed all my days. I loved working with my kids, that are still being very naughty I hear...need to go back and sort them out. How I would love to. But it is time to move. I have been such a mess this evening, trying to pack, which is becoming a nervous disaster. I tried to eat some chicken, instead cried, turned it into a take away and gave it to a man in the plaza who was in absolute heaven as it was still warm. That made me cry more! I have made so many lovely friends and I pray that they last beyond Peru. Inside I feel like a bundle of nerves that is about to fall apart, yet I know that I can´t, and I find that so hard, so hard to keep it all together. Just tonight, I wish someone else could pack my bags, someone else could sort out my life, that someone else could be stronger than me. I know that I will more than likely not see my kids again, or the people I have met here. The man from the market that gave me a necklace, the lady who chats like a bullet, the hostel owner that sings happy birthday, the taxi man that buys us oranges and bananas for our trip, making us realise we have paid far too much. The last four months have been so different, so welcoming, beyond what I expected. Tomorrow that ends, I leave, and despite working in Santiago for a week, I know that it won´t be the same. Tonight I will try to stay awake as long as I can, think about the memories that make me smile, the ones that make me laugh and I will also try to think about tomorrow and the friends I am about to see. Maybe tomorrow will be a good day, maybe it will make me smile, maybe all I will do is cry, but tomorrow is tomorrow, and I will think about it all tomorrow.

Just Realised...

I have just worked out why everyone is sleeping when I call....Britain has turned their clocks forward....so that means I am six hours behind. A big apology to all those who want to skype and I keep missing them....I finally know why!

The Jungle

Gorgeous, devine and very green, with many many mozzies that seem to like the idea of chowing ones feet. We stayed in this devine little place with a crazy cook that definitely made each moment worthwhile. After deciding he liked me, our food was the best ever. Fruit with yoghurt, pancakes, veggies, salad....each meal just got better and better. I managed to do some river rafting...did not need a knee for that...great fun. Would hate to be in grade five rapids, these were big enough, and feel like the river and I have a mutual understanding now.
Also, I went, not sure what to call it, but where you slide on a rope from one side to another, about 100metres high, very exciting! Did not need knee for that either. Had to cycle though from one village to another on a very gravel road. That was slightly tricky, and did hurt, but had dosed myself with painkillers beforehand and then largly afterwards, was high most of that day.
Saw a few different birds, insects, and water things, not very good with names of that kind of stuff...BUT I did see the most beautiful and biggest butterflies ever. The brighest blues and oranges, along with striking black or white that seemed to contrast their colours. They were everywhere, fluttering passed you, then coming back as if they were trying to tell you something you didn´t know. They really were beautiful, and each one was more amazing than the first. I kept thinking how beautiful they were, and then wondered if my awe of their beauty was returned. Do animals think we are great?
The road home was very similar to that of Santa Theresa. We had three major major landslides where we had to change buses, and then one part that meant alot of walking uphill in very mucky mud. My trainers now look like they belong to a boy! Then our combi had a flat tyre. Finally made it back to Cusco, sharing with a Canadian girl who was working in the Jungle. It really was a great few days with many funny moments, that I am sure I will edit into this blog, when I have the energy. This is one of the Landslides, the whole road has just vanished.

Useful?

For all those people that have given in to having ipods....a little hint!

If you use someone elses itunes computer, just press shift before plugging in your ipod and you won´t lose any stuff. Not sure why I am blogging this. (P.s don´t have ipod as it would either be stolen or lost in some natural element)

Machu Picchu

Despite all the falls, bruises, cuts and sore aches, being above the clouds is the most amazing experience ever! I got the early early bus up to Machu Picchu, while it was still dark, along with many others, that seemed very fit to walk! Felt like all giving them a slight talking to! At first the clouds seemed to hover above and I did think there would not be a sunrise at all to brag about. Slowly the clouds seemed to float downwards as the sun took over and gained its rightful place. Standing on one of the highest points, I watched the blocks of clouds turn into strings of light smoke that spiraled around the mountain and seemed to enter homes that used to be. The mountains brightened from dark to lush colours of green and cast their giant shadows on the other side. It really was the most beautiful thing to see. The clouds seemed to lower, and the city literally looked like it was floating on the clouds, suspended in a circle of majestic mountains. I walked (hobbled) for about four hours, around all the homes, storage places, fountains, and bathrooms. Each part felt so abanoned yet occupied. Going early in the morning did mean hardly any tourists, so often you are in places on your own. Found a llama sleeping in a house, lifting his neck, to see who had intruded, and then back to sleep. It was so peaceful that I found myself watching the llama for far too long. I really did not think I would be impressed after all the advents that have happened, yet once again, I was totally amazed, and intrigued over the life of the Incas. How on earth did they build such an amazing place so high up, with hardly any fancy tools. We debate over putting a nail in a wall in case wall falls down. (would have pics, but camera is still in rapids....somewhere)

Decided to take bus down, felt like a real failure for not being able to walk anymore, as bus was full of old people who seemed to think the same.....why is she not walking down! Went to the hot springs and paddled my feet in the water, not brave enough to go in and bear bruises to the world. I can´t believe I am here, I feel far away from normality yet very close to it. Not sure what that means yet.

Meant to be Simple

Wake up the next morning, early with massive appetite for Banana Pancakes! Today will be a breeze, all I have to do, is get combi from Santa Theresa to the Hydro Electric station and walk for two hours on track to Agua Calientes. No trains in the morning, so all good. Santa Theresa is one little street, combi waits in the middle, which can be seen from Hostal. Eat my pancake and am still in my own world from yesterday. Combi takes us, drops us off, we all start walking. I start off with a small group, but scenes are so beautiful, take lots of pics and get left behind, which doesn´t really matter. Train track, this part, is in the middle of Jungle scenery, so really beautiful. An hour passes, meet some girls coming back and they say I am halfway, really impressed with my pace, and think I will be there by 11am! Walk over waterfalls, get to this amazing big one, (standing about three meters above bottom, know this as I am 1.55 meters and it was double my height) decide to take picture. Think, gosh, if someone fell into that backwards they would be dead in an instance. Take the most gorgeous picture, decide to take another......yes, I fell in! Still not sure how. Luckily I managed to twist my body around and avoid massive rock with hand and knees, got swept up in rushing downward rapids and luckily caught hold of rock, felt my whole body being ripped around me and move in direction of river. Did think this was finally it! Somehow managed to pull myself back up onto the edge of waterfall, and then looked up and thinking, I was never going to get up this smooth green moss stuff. Waited for a moment, in pain, and somehow felt very calm. Saw a bunch of rocks I could climb up. (Plan B was to wait for someone to walk pass) Moved along side and then had to somehow cross over. Not easy, with very sore sore leg. Climbed up. and evaluated my aliments. Not good. Walking will definitely not be an hour. Strip on train track, luckily have sarong, which I can turn into skirt, and have above knee. Elbow is gushing blood and can barely move. But yet nothing seems broken. Start limping along. More upset about camera that is now in rushing rapids on the way to Cusco or somewhere! Have no food or water, as I was holding bottle in between legs and apple in hand. Walk for what seems like forever, resting here and there, thinking where the hell is everyone today, there is meant to be a combi every hour..... Finally sit down, see a couple with guide coming towards me....think I might just cry now, as pain is really painful. Couple end up both being doctors! I know! Guide gets out some stuff that kills bacteria, foams alot and stings like hell. Couple put on antibiotic cream, and all sorts, give me tablets. Guide asks where my friends are, to which I replied..."No tengo amigos hoy!" and started crying. Now I know that isn´t true, but at that moment I felt very alone, very sore, and really felt like I had no friends. They had been in the jungle for a few days. Tell them really not to wait. Make a stick for me, and give me some water. Girl rearranges my backpack, and tells me to hold stick in right hand. Checks knee joints and thinks it is okay, but looks like I might have fractured knee cap. Knee to swollen to tell. Guide tells me it is only twenty minutes, which means triple for me.... Tell them not to worry and to keep going. (where is Smiling Man now, could really make use of some hand holding) Somehow managed to get here. (1 hour became 4 hours) As I ended track, loads of people started power walking past me, where were they before! Find a great hostal for 15 soles, with a hot and cold tap. Hot tap is really hot. Don´t think I will be walking up mountain tomorrow, might have to chicken out and take bus. Will try walk down.

Saw doctor couple in the plaza, and both, alarmingly told me that I am very lucky to be alive, and have the injuries I do. If I had not caught hold of that rock, I would have been smashed up in the rapids by rocks that no one can see. They did not want to say it before, but thought it the rest of the way. There you go, nothing is really simple, even when I think it will be. I am the first to fall down... that people know of.... but now hear that two men died in the same place two years ago. They only found their bodies ten days later.

Not sure what to make of day, not sure if I should just stay inside and wait for this all to pass!

Once again, don´t be put off by this route, it is really safe and amazing, and beautiful!

I am more upset about my cannon camera, it really was the best thing, I was so happy to finally have a digital camera, it had the most loveliest pictures on, that meant so much to me. I would have put picture of injuries and waterfall on blog, but now that won´t happen. Maybe if I write to cannon and explain my story they would sponsor me one....as a get well present.....what do you think.

P.s. This blog really does not give justice to pain I am in! Think this trip is teaching me all about the choices you have and don´t have. Sometimes, whether you like it or not, you just have to get on with it! (Especially when there are no Virgin Helicopters or Smiling Men in sight to rescue you!)

Who needs Disney Land when you can go by bus

This is the schedule...Cuzco to Santa Maria(5/6 hours) Santa Maria to Santa Theresa (2 Hrs) EASY Hey! These are the facts, below is the reality! I know this is a long blog, but to shorten it would be an injustice.
Bus leaves on time...all is going well. The first hour is sales hour. First selling sweets, then a man who droned on for what seemed like forever, selling ginseng tablets and hand cream! After an hour we stop, apparently the driver now has breakfast, so we must all get off and have breakfast too, lots of women outside bus selling corn and cheese for one sole...Driver finishes, we all get back on!
Second Stop, an hour later... driver pops head through rear of bus and shouts Quieren Bano, muy tranquil. Want the toilet...very calm...So Everyone one gets off. Men wee against slope of mountain, women wee on downhill side. Is this just an unspoken rule?
Third Stop...yes it goes on. We come to massive river that has broken through due to rain, and is now taking over major dip in road. Two buses in front of us. Each bus seems to come alive and almost takes on the personality of horse that is trying to be guided into something it really does not want to do! Somehow, half covered in water, bus makes it through. Our turn...close my eyes, and hold shoulders in upward position!
Despite all these stops, it is the most amazing bus journey, high up in the mountains, and then down again, only to repeat this up down pattern. At one stage we were driving through the clouds, and yet the plants, when close, were the most amazing colours of green that you have ever seen.
Fourth Stop... Stop at massive waterfall. You can´t over it or under it, so yes we go through massive, gushing waterfall. Which seemed to be normal for the rest of the journey. Not sure why, but was sitting on left side window, somehow whenever I looked down saw nothing, we were driving on each on mountain, now again I would watch a few rocks fall down. Thought they were meant to drive on the right side. Am told now, that they stay away from mountain slope, as mud slides are more dangerous. My stomach was in a constant knot, that ease at moments and others not. The scenes were truly the most amazing I have ever seen, despite me feeling that my life was the most vulnerable it has ever been. Just one little slip, and that would be the end.
Get to Santa Maria, most of the people by now know that is my stop and jump up to tell me. Made it, thank driver, beyond thanking, and think he is mad to do this journey every day.
Now this is where the simple plan all fades!
Start waiting for combi for Santa Theresa. Then after waiting half an hour, man next to me (with Limp) says it is best if we hitch a ride, as roads are too bad and there might not be a combi till the next morning. My desperation to get there makes me comply. So Limping Man and me walk down road, round corner, over bridge and wait on this concrete slab, joined by an old lady and another man, who had the loveliest smile. All want the same thing, a car to Santa Theresa.
Smiling Man stops cars, but none so far. Eventually, a truck like bus thing comes along. It is going halfway....up the hill again. Why does it have to be up and down mountains... This time road is not a road, but a mud path. Bus thing must be a front wheel drive, as each time we turn the corner, back just slides round. Sitting at left window again, have obviously not learnt that it is not the best place, watching wheel slip behind me, and keep thinking....this is truly it, my last moment of life. BUT no, as I am still here. Finally stop. Big commotion. The mud path as fallen away and there is only a road about 1 meter wide. Everyone gets out. Women chat, men get spades from back, and dig into mountain to create a wider road. This takes over an hour. We all walk across, two drivers pick sticks, to see who will be the one to drive across. He makes it miraculously! Finally we get to the final stop, which is only half way. Please note by now it is dark, and according to plan I was meant to be in Santa Theresa by three! Get off with Smiling Man, Limping Man, Lady with two children and an old man with a torch!
We all walk a little bit, am told it is only a "poco mas" little more. Should have know already then....(Peru and time distinction are not well coordinated) Limping Man can no longer carry on. So Smiling Man walks up to a big house, and asks if Limping Man can stay for the night. Now it is only Smiling Man and me left. Walking in the absolute dark, on a road that is falling away and full of waterfalls. Had to keep holding his hand as he guided me through dodgy parts. Then remember I have a torch! Walking for about an hour, and I question him on his little bit more theory and find out we have still two hours to walk. Am now nervous, because it is dark, do not know where I am, nothing in sight, except for Smiling Man who I have to put my faith into and hope it all works out. Keep looking at sky, which has the most beautiful starry scene, and it seems to calm me down.
Just when I think this will never end, a combi arrives, packed! Including Limping Man. Won´t let us in, I am about to lose my calm cool and beg on hands and knees when Smiling Man is already sitting on top and giving me his hand to pull me up. (There was a small group returning, and combi thought we were all together.) Feel combi moving, and have vision of Smiling man gone and me alone in the jungle with no direction! Strong hand grabs me and other group lift me up, and there we go! Smiling Man tells driver there are only two. All goes well for a while, think it is all fine, when we stop. Big waterfall, massive rapids. (Please Lord don´t make me walk anymore.) All get off. Driver and others jump knee and thigh deep into river, to see how strong the rapids are and where it is shallower. Other men chop down tree and make bridge for us to walk over. Combi somehow makes it over....combi on other side decides not to risk it, and turns around. Back on top. Finally, what seemed like a good hour of driving in all (which would mean another three hours walking) Smiling Man gets off, shows me his house and gives me a load of instructions about hostal and bus prices. Sad to seem him go, give him the biggest thank you hug. Am told there is now space downstairs, girls all shift up and fuss over me. Drive into town, mention I need a hostal, which sends whole combi into discussion.... (Which on is nicer...) Boy pops up from nowhere, and takes me to hostal which belongs to his dad. At the back of lovely restaurant that closes at eight. It is already nine, but man makes a big rice and vegetable dish for me. Am so glad to be somewhere safe, and warm, fall asleep listening to Banana Pancakes, wondering how I got here!

Despite it being the maddest day, I can truly say it was the best. There were so many times when my head was saying, what the hell are you doing, yet my heart had to trust, there was really no choice. Was told not to be nervous, as the people in the jungle are friendly and calm, I was more likely to die from a mud slide or dodgy mountain edge. Great! For those who want a cheaper version of going to Machu Picchu, don´t be put off. This was the most amazing route, with the loveliest people, the most devine sites you have ever seen. And there were no tourists! I would wait till the rain stopped next time!

i counted!!

There are 99 steep steps!

Lots of stuff in one!

Cusco is absolutely amazing, am in this great hostal, well great for views, but hundreds of stairs to get there. Okay I am exagerating...maybe only fifty. Will count them next time!

You try walk them with no air to breathe! There is so much to see and do, and buy. Me and goodies are such a bad combination. I love shopping, why does it give me so much absolute pleasure? Was greeted in the Plaza with ballons of every colour by Sharon and friends this morning.

Very odd to be away away for my birthday, and not to have chocolate cake as an early breakfast. Will have to have make up for this in New Zealand! Big parade this afternoon for Good Friday. Imagine having your birthday on Good Friday. A good day, it must be a sign for this year!

Am going to try and get to Machu picchu the dodgy but very cheap way. Got my bus ticket this morning, just driving to the bus terminal was an experience, felt like I was back in Peru.

Cusco centre is totally aimed at the tourists, and is the mecca for finding friends, having adventures and a good time, without any hard work. Bus should make entertaining reading, as it is a similar bus to last. It is a morning bus and they are fine. I think!

Then I am off to the Jungle....very excited, not about the spiders, but about everything else. Will be the smelliest and dirtiest girl around by the end, it´s great!

Grown ups in Heaven

While waiting for my dodgy (not the usual) night bus to Cusco on the 4th, someone try to yank my bag off me and holding onto my arm, in a not very nice manner. Which irritated me to no end. In my ideal world, men are meant to be gentlemen, opening doors, lending coats...you all get the idea. (yes I know these don´t really exist) Anyway, something inside me snapped and I gave a good knee up into his balls. Obviously man stopped trying to get my bag, and doubled in pain. Did think about elbowing his back, as seen in movies...but thought best to leave the scene....
Secondly, standing outside bus, there are 6 foreigners, including me. Tell them I have very very bad feeling about bus and don´t want to get on, almost start to cry. (think was due to bag scene) Driver thinks I am looney. Bus is fine he insists. Other foreigners all tell me it will be fine, we get on and sit down together. Driver then comes up and moves me the nicest, biggest seat in front. (He thinks I have become nervous wreck and doesn´t want any bad karma for dodgy bus ride, is what I understood in my poor spanish) We arrive in Cusco...amazing, think I must be getting mixed messages, and apologise for being silly and insecure and afraid of bus. Then last night, meet up with other foreigners from bus, they are staying in the same hostel. Am told that their cameras, monies, mp 3 players and other items...don´t remember, were all stolen on bus! Can you believe that! So my bad feeling was right! Have learnt today, that dodgy buses will often put small foreign groups together at the back, and gang around them. Increases chances of gaining goods. That could have been me. Yet again, my angel, dad and mom must be watching over me. One good thing for having a team of grown ups in Heaven!

Cusco here I come!

Can´t believe it is April already! Where have the months gone. Am looking forward to my bus ride. Will remember to take picture to show you amazing seat! Have had such a lovely time in Puno, beyond what I expected. To think I was not fussed whether I made it here or not. What an assumption. The lake was really amazing, and the islands and the ruins. I never ever thought a lake could be that big. How big could it be. What a surprise. Have been wowed over by the people, the scenery, the skills, and of course the chocolate cake. Great how one finds the best chocolate cake in town so quickly. I don´t think I am ready to leave, but sometimes one just has to leave. Even if you don´t want to. Have met random people along the way, shared rooms and even beds with a few, drank with a few, and learnt many new Spanish words! I can´t believe it´s my birthday soon, another year, I can hear the words of that song...and what have we done..... I look at my life and I look at others and see so many different things. I wish I knew the answers and what was right and what wasn´t. Sometimes I think life is very different to how I expected it to be. But then maybe everyone thinks that. I don´t know. I look at the world and see a gorgeous beautiful place that has so much to offer. I pray I never miss what there is, that I am never to busy to notice and never to tired to hear, even if it is in spanish!

Should be in Cuzco by the morning!

Floating Islands

The most amazing thing you have ever ever seen!
They start by planting a few reeds in a meter of soil, then that's it.....can you believe it. Cut up reeds, and spread them across in one direction and the next month repeat the process in another direction. Am so wowed over by the skills this country has.
If a family wants to move, they simply pick up their house and move to another island. Or cut the island. They have a school, a centre island, where there are shops and a phone.
They all work together, growing potatoes, having ducks, hens, rabbits, and swop items instead of using money. Great hey. Imagine. Maybe a haircut could pay for a months rent. Who would fall for that!

The ducks even have a little pond....

Broody days

Working with kids is not a good thing, have decided. Have become extremely broody, and look at every male as a producer of fatherhood! Not sure what is wrong with me, something has gone slightly loco!
But then, look at the pics, how could you not be. Just a shame, as I do meet lovely people, and they do talk to me, thinking I am listening to their wonderful tales, instead I am looking at their eyes, their build, hands and feet. It really is awful. If only they knew what I was really thinking. I don´t even like them. Not one little bit, it would help if I actually did like them. What is wrong with me! Help is needed big time to overcome broodiness. Gosh, what would I do with a kid! (loco means mad) (loca means gay - so I am told after using the later!)

Shoeman!

Heading to the mountains and altitude means......cold, which means.....boots! But from using them non stop in London the heels were worn through and with the rain, that isn´t worth thinking about. Yuk, wet feet! So I went on a search for a shoe man, and obviously found many. Quoted me a pound for new heels, and made me sit on a little plastic chair to wait, in my socks.
Out of nowhere appeared on child, then two, then three, then ten! All of different ages. Staring away, and asking for my name.
To make the staring process less painful I decided to teach them my Spanish songs. Sharon, who was with me did not know whether to laugh or join in. There we were, under the plastic bag roof, sitting on a chair, while the rain poured down, singing. Then a few moms appeared and started singing as well! Am sure my songs will become the latest trend in schools all over Peru. They all love the TAXI one. Will sing it one day for you all. But you might not appreciate that as much. Really like Hurauz, it definitely has a certain charm about it.